If You Go Down To The Woods Today...

...you're sure of a big surprise! Mushroom season is upon us and some great photo opportunities if you know how to make the best of them. When Matthias came down to visit and shoot last weekend (mate, you've got to get a webpage up so that I can link to your great images), one of the things I was excited about was getting round to a good mushroom shoot. There's a really easy trick-shot with mushrooms if you know what you're doing. Matthias was complaining about the lack of suitable woodland where he lives in the north east of Bavaria near the Czech border and I blindly boasted that we had a great little woodland at the bottom of the village that was sure to have a great supply. Fortunately my woods didn't let me down, quite the reverse, they did me proud.

Lantern Mushrooms || Olympus 47 mm, f/11, 1 s, ISO 200 

I'll share at the bottom the technical details of how to pull off a shot like this - it sounds more complicated than it is, honest!

In the meantime I'll just dump a number of the other photos from our session here without much explanation in between. My go-to aperture with my Olympus Zuiko 12-100 zoom is f/8 - it's a great compromise between image quality and depth of field. Because a lot of these images were taken at relatively short distances, where depth of field shrinks to virtually nothing, I stopped down to f/11 in the hope of increasing the amount of each photo that was in focus.

It's Not Just Mushrooms || Olympus 92 mm, f/8, 1/2 s, ISO 400

All the Delicate Stuff || Olympus 12 mm, f/5, 1/4 s, ISO 200

Huddled Close || Olympus 47 mm, f/11, 1 s, ISO 200

The Little Things I || Olympus 47 mm, f/11, 1 s, ISO 200 

The Little Things II || Olympus 47 mm, f/11, 1/2 s, ISO 200

The mushrooms in the above two images were so small that I wouldn't have spotted then if hadn't been for Matthias' eagle eyes. The tops couldn't have been more than 5 mm across. To be able to get close enough I had to screw the +3 diopter magnifying filter on to the front of the lens and lie down on the moss.

Narrow Focal Plane is a Challenge || Olympus 41 mm, f/11, 1/5 s, ISO 200

Another Composite Shot || Olympus 28 mm, f/11, 0.6 s, ISO 200

And Without Illumination || Olympus 28 mm, f/11, 1/4 s, ISO 200

Olympus 66 mm, f/11, 30 s, ISO 200

Twin Caps || Olympus 31 mm, f/11, 10 s, ISO 200

Twin Caps II || Olympus 31 mm, f/11, 2.5 s, ISO 200

I was really proud of this image, showed it to my wife Sharon and she just burst out laughing. Piqued, I asked her what was so funny, and then she pointed out the googly eyes above the left mushroom. Fair point.

Where the Fairies Live I || Olympus 44 mm, f/11, 4 s, ISO 200

Where the Fairies Live II || Olympus 92 mm, f/11, 3.2 s, ISO 200

All in a Row || Olympus 92 mm, f/11, 3.2 s, ISO 200

Cluster || Olympus 100 mm, f/11, 3.2 s, ISO 200

B-Shot || Olympus 100 mm, f/11, 2 s, ISO 200

Just to show that it doesn't all go right. Sometimes the depth of field is too shallow for a decent shot...

How It's Done

These illuminated mushroom shots are super impressive and quite easy to do with minimal equipment. All you need is:

• a suitably patient patch of mushrooms
• a camera - preferably one with a manual mode
• a tripod or other means of keeping the camera absolutely still for two shots (though as Matthias shows below, putting the camera on the ground is enough too, you just need to be absolutely sure it doesn' move between the two shots)
• a light source (torch, smartphone or in our case Lume Cubes)
• software that can deal with layering two photos over each other

Setting up the shot

The procedure in the field (forest?) is relatively simple: set up the scene, making sure you get low enough - you're going to get dirty knees whatever, so you may as well get used to that - the angle has to be below the gills so you may have to find some mushrooms on a log. Watch out for the background - it's easy to focus so intensely on the thing in front of you that you blend out horrible stuff in the back.

Set the camera in manual mode, you'll want a relatively low aperture - say around f/11 - unless you focus-stack depth of field is going to be a challenge because we're dealing with close-up photography and then set up the shutter speed - it doesn't have to be fast because the camera is fixed. Your camera should show you what is a good shutter speed, though at this stage it doesn't hurt if you deliberately underexpose by  anything up to a stop - generally shown as EV setting at the bottom of the display. If you have the option and feel confidant about doing it, I would strongly recommend that you focus manually too; the scene in front of the camera is likely to be very 'busy' and the camera can't read your mind - it doesn't know exactly which aspect of the scene you want to have in clear focus.

Take the starting shot, preferably either with a remote or a 2 s timer so you don't introduce unnecessary camera shake. 

Then take your light source, hold it over the mushrooms and take your second shot. The brightness and distance are both matters for experimentation. Thicker mushrooms will require you holding the light closer so that you can see the light shining through the mushroom gills. Check your second exposure that it's not over-exposed and if it is, repeat with the light dimmer or higher up. Rinse and repeat as necessary.

Now you should have two shots which are properly exposed, properly focused and identical except for the light. Now comes the software bit. 

Base exposure, illuminated exposure and final blended image

Exactly how you blend the images will depend on your software. I use a processing program called ON1 Photo Raw that lets me layer the photos and then determine which parts of which photo appear in the final image. This can be a bit fiddly but is worth spending time on to get it right. Defining which parts of which photo shows uses a mask - a black/white/grey layer that dictates which part of an image show and which are concealed. In this case I had the lighter image as the top layer and used the mask you can see below:

The mask, I've elected to completely mask out the tops of the caps and then have a gradient of light bleeding off into the darker image

The resulting compound image

The rest is increasing the colours and getting the shading right.

The Power of the Cube

I've not done a tech review before, but there's a first time for everything. A couple of weeks ago I found a YouTube review of a neat looking external light source cleverly called the Lume Cube. I forget who's video I saw first - like any good photographer with a mild case of GAS*, before buying I binge-watched a whole load of video reviews, but the first one I saw was probably Hudson Henry's - you can check it here if you're interested. What the reviews had to say was all very interesting, and I could immediately see the potential of this device in a number of settings, particularly as an additional light source in low-light settings for mixed-light photography, using the cube as a fixed (or even mobile) fill-in light.

*Gear Acquisition Syndrome - the tendency of (not just) photographers to acquire unnecessary gear in the often mistaken belief that it will improve your images without actually investing time or effort in your talents.

Lilly of the Valley || Olympus f5.6, 1/200, ISO 200

There are three versions of the cube, the first version was a solid 4.5 x 4.5 cm cube with a screw-cap Micro USB charge port, the second - Lume Cube Air - is a lighter version intended, as I understand it, for the drone market, and the third returned to the initial format with improved battery duration, light quality and spread as well as 'controllability'. All of them have a standard 3/8" tripod attachment thread and so can be mounted in a number of different ways.

All of them can be controlled using buttons on the device itself or using a dedicated smartphone App, allowing basic on/off controls, a light intensity bar allowing you to set the luminosity any where from 1-100%, strobe control and optical slave mode if you want to couple it with a separate flash device.

Having looked at all the reviews, particularly with an eye on battery life and light quality, I decided I'd go for version 2 and get a few of the useful-looking accessories while I was at it. In Europe the Cubes aren't all that easy to come by and not every camera shop stocks them. Amazon couldn't deliver the Portable Lighting Kit I was after so I Googled around and found it in a German online camera store and ordered one. Or thought I did. When it arrived I was dismayed to realise that I'd mistakenly ordered an original cube. Rather than send it back, I thought I'd give it a run for its money and see how I got on with it. The original Cube does actually have one advantage over the newer model; the charge point has a screw-cap rather than a rubber cover and is rated to 30 m underwater rather than the 10 m of version 2. If I want to, I can take the cube underwater as a light source for shooting whilst diving. 

What's in the Box?

Like I said, there were a couple of things in the Lighting Kit that piqued my curiosity, it has a range of attachments and filters as well as a doodah for mounting it on the camera's flash hot-shoe. Some of gear is clearly intended for portrait photographers and videographers.

The Cube

Obviously the Cube itself is the star of the show. Shot here in ambient daylight at about 5% maximum brightness. You're never going to need more light with this thing, it's an absolute monster. In a good way of course.

Box Contents

As well as the cube itself, a mini user manual and a micro USB charging cable, the Portable Lighting Kit+ comes with a filter attachment adaptor, a dome diffuser - probably my most-used filter, strong and light flat diffusion filters, two hexagonal plates, red, green, blue and yellow gels, two Lee CTO filters, a barn door, a snoot, the (dumb) hot-shoe connector and a sturdy zip case (not shown).

How to Use It

I'm not going to go into the user manual here, but I want to discuss the potential of the Cube from a landscape photographer's point of view. As well as off-camera fill-in light for flowers and other small objects, the Cube provides plenty of light for illuminating the foreground of night- and astro-photographs or for illuminating people. One of the things I'm looking forward to trying is using it in water to illuminate a wet-scape.

Lighting up the Aquilegia

There's something attractive about off-camera light. Light straight from the camera (flash) is fairly boring, resulting in an essentially equal exposure over the whole image, whilst at the same time creating harsh shadows if anything is partially obscured. Light something from the side and you'll start getting landscape photographers interested. Most landscapers look forward to the golden hours - the time just after sunrise and just before sunset due to the gentle light from the side rather than above. With the Cube, I can take this a step further, illuminating from wherever I please within reason. Lighting from below, for example, yields some lovely results on bell flowers, making it look as if they're lit up from within. A while ago I was struck by some photos of mushrooms by a British photographer who goes by the Instagramm handle @fatmanskinnycamera and was interested to see whether I could recreate the feeling he generated with a mix of artificial and natural light. I set up my test lab in the back garden. Please excuse the greenfly, I only noticed them after I'd finished processing the images! Here's my comparison of native light, on-camera flash and Lume Cube illumination, with the Cube set to approximately 20% luminosity.

Native Light || Olympus f16, 8" ISO 200

On-Camera Flash || Olympus f16, 1/60 s, ISO 200

Lume Cube Underlit || Olympus f16, 6" ISO 200

I think the results speak for themselves, the native light image is ok, but there's little separation from the background (well, I was shooting at f16), and the sky is distracting. The on-camera flash causes harsh shadows on the flowers (look at the flower on the right) and completely darkens the sky. Yes, I know it's possible to reduce the intensity of the flash to better balance the light, but I'm not particularly keen on investing the time in this skill. The Lume Cube, however, casts a gentle ethereal light and gives me the flexibility of being able to place the light source wherever you want is fantastic.

So that's how it looks close-up, what if you need more light. Here's a quick-and-dirty grab of my garden yew tree with and without the Cube, which was on the floor below the tripod.

Don't forget that there's an acute danger of under-exposing photos at dusk and at night due to the brightness of the camera screen; to ensure good exposure, I strongly recommend you rely on your camera histogram, assuming you have one. 

What I Do and Don't Like

There really is so much to like about this cute little cube:

Ease of use The constant source makes setting up photos practically idiot-proof. There's no need to muck about with flash, no trial and error. It's pretty much WYSIWYG and it's easy to move the light around and change direction and beam whilst monitoring the effect in real time through the camera. 

Light Quality Although one of the complaints against V1 was the light quality, I think this comes from portrait photographers who were concerned about light on skin. By light quality I mean that they reported it giving a slightly off-white colour cast. I certainly had no complaints illuminating flowers at dusk in the garden. 

Control The amount of light is also easily controlled in 1% increments via the dedicated Lume-X app, even if I did keep losing the connection. For shorter periods this was simply a question of clicking a button in the app.

Attachment It's easy to attach the Cube to any number of supports using the 3/8" thread, whether the hot-shoe connector or an Arca Swiss plate for tripod mounting. Mostly I use it on my old Ultra-pod II tabletop tripod using the supplied hot-shoe connector. This gives me infinite directional control. If I don't use the connector, the Ultra-pod screw tends to push off the filter-holder.

Filters The fact that the filters attach to the filter holder magnetically is brilliant, though I'm not sure I'd trust this 100% underwater. I think I'd be afraid of loosing the filter holder by catching on something.

Portability Lastly, the Cube is incredibly portable. At 100 g, and approximately 20 ml volume, no-one is going to notice it at the bottom of a rucksack or camera bag.

Lilac by Moonlight	Lilly of the Valley
Aquilegia Lit by Snoot	Dandelion Head

There are a couple of things I don't like with my version 1 cube that have apparently been overcome with version 2:

Battery The battery seems to run down very quickly, though not faster than indicated by the manufacturer. I tried a continuous test at 100% luminosity to see whether it would last the full 30 min, but the device quickly became so hot that it shut down. At 50% luminosity I only got 40 min continuous running before running the battery down - disappointing considering the blurb says it should be good for 2 h at this level.

Connection Another bugbear is that I frequently lose contact with the app and have to re-initiate the connection on the cube end.

Light Quality Lastly, the light quality feels quite harsh for what I want to do with the Cube, but the diffusers easily compensate for this. 

Bottom Line Despite these shortcomings, all-in-all I really like what I can do with the Cube, even if I wish I'd got V2 to start with. If I find myself using it a lot, I might grab myself a basic Cube V2 for underway.

Aquilegia Aglow || Olympus f16, 13", ISO 200